Jerusalem Dos and Don'ts

Making a Trip to the Old City a Little Smoother

I thoroughly enjoyed Jerusalem.  Although there were a few things I wish I had understood before traveling there.  These tips I outline here.    

Do Go to the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens

A botanical garden with a biblical theme, the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens offer displays about plants important to Jewish and Christian Heritage.  Visitors can learn about the Seven Species of Israel, crops gifted to the Jews by God that ensured abundant food, including grapes, olives, wheat, barley, figs, dates, and pomegranates.  Alternatively, visitors can see plants species believed to have comprised the crown of thorns or burning bush.

Don't Go to the Botanical Gardens Burring a Shemitta Year

God told the Israelites to let the land rest every seven years by not growing new crops or expanding agricultural areas.  Only actions which maintain an already existing plant area allowed, like watering a tree.  The Jerusalem Botanical Gardens honor the shemitta year by not planting or watering.  There is a dearth of of flowers and color, while the ponds are either dry or more so resembling cesspools.

Adding my written promise of a good deed to an ornament in the Jerusalem Botanical Gardens.  Good deeds are a requirement of the shemitta year.

Do Carry a Scarf in the Old City
Many holy areas require men and women to cover their legs past the knees and their shoulders.  When it is hot out and tank tops and shorts are the norm, a cheap but pretty scarf allows visitors to cover up when needed to enter a church or the Western Wall area.

Modeling the scarf I bought for my trip to Jerusalem with my friend Ana.

Do Not Forget to Carry the Scarf

Peoples' idea of modest is not necessarily in concert with other religious groups idea of modest.  Even if someone thinks he/she are following the rules of dress, they may have overlooked a detail or two.  Forgetting to carry a scarf at all times or knowingly leaving it behind because he/she thinks their clothes are modest enough may result in being denied entrance to a church or having to wear a "scarf of shame" at the Western Wall.  Clothing proctors at the Western Wall patrol the area telling people to cover up dress deemed indecent.  If the person does not have a jacket or other clothing to cover with, they are issued a blue scarf to wear while at the wall, which is returned in a bin at the exit.

Wearing the scarf of shame issued to me at the Western Wall.  The neckline of my shirt was deemed too low.  I purposely wore leggings to cover my knees and a shirt with sleeves to cover my shoulders, but it was not enough.  My scarf was in the car.

Do Walk Around the Old City

Much of the Old City cannot be traversed by car, such as the steps of David which lead from the main parking area at Jaffa Gate to the Western Wall.  The hundreds of steps traversing this distance must be covered on foot.  Also the Old City is relatively small and can be traversed in about fifteen minutes.

Do Not Try to Drive in the Old City

The only people capable of wedging cars through the tiny alleyways and arches of the Old City are those who grew up doing it.  I am saying from experience, don't even try.  I didn't want to, but tried because a local assured me it wasn't a problem.  I didn't even make it inside the walls.

Cars playing chicken in the narrow streets of the Old City.

Do Bring Candles on the Via Dolorosa 

The stations of the cross and other churches offer the opportunity to light candles as a symbol of prayer.  For those who are religious or just a pyromaniac like me, buying candles at every station is more expensive than buying a bundle and carrying it along.

Don't Get Upset When a Priest Extinguishes Your Candle and Throws It Out

Some of the offering pyres on which candles are placed are so popular (like ones in the Church of the Holy Sepluchre) they become a fire hazard with all the candles placed on them.  The priests are just trying to keep the building from burning down.  

Lighting a candle inside the chapel on the Mount of Olives where Jesus ascended into Heaven.

Do Stay in the Old City

All of the buildings are old and awesome.  I felt like I was staying in a medieval castle, only older.  Hotels are also relatively inexpensive and the close proximity to all the sights and attractions is a time saver.

Don't Stay Next to a Mosque

Unless you want to be awoken at 4:30 AM by an extremely loud a long call to prayer, stay in a section of the city not in the Muslim Quarter.  I respect the religious devotion of someone who wakes up at 4:30 AM everyday to pray, I just want to sleep later than that.

Even the bathroom of my hotel was awesome, with stone walls that are at least as old as the crusades.

Do Take Advantage of All the Fresh Squeezed Juice Stands

Stands selling fresh squeezed juice are all over the Old City.  My personal favorite was a half orange juice half carrot juice combo.  It was bright orange and so tasty I downed it in minutes.  Papaya seems to be another popular choice although I did not get an opportunity to taste it.

Don't Try to Order Beer in the Muslim Quarter

Devout Muslims don't drink beer and they don't sell it.  Asking for beer at one of their restaurants is just going to offend them and make the asker look ignorant.  A two minute walk to the Christian Quarter results in an abundance of restaurants selling beers from all over the Middle East, including Greece and Palestine.

Enjoying a Greek beer with my dinner at a restaurant in the Christian Quarter of the Old City.